NAMIBIA

Namibia by Desert Express Travelogue

Choose from one of these Namibia Experiences:

11 Day Classic Namibia Luxury Mobile Safari

15 day Pure Namibia Camping & Lodge Safari (semi-participation)

20 day Southern Cross Camping Safari - Cape Town to Victoria Falls

22 day Desert & Delta Lodge Safari in Botswana & Namibia

The haunting landscapes of the Skeleton Coast and the giant dunes of the Sossusvlei, the animal wonderland of Etosha and the awe-inspiring Fish River Canyon are some of the memories a visitor to Namibia will treasure for life. Sometimes called Africa's Gem, Namibia boasts prolific wildlife, yet the abiding impression will be the vast landscapes of deserts and plains stretching seemingly into infinity.

Namibia offers the photographer - amateur or professional - light and scenery like nowhere else in the world. Namibia has rich ethnic diversity, perhaps most visible in the dramatic dress styles of groups such as the Herero and the Himba. This is also one of the last refuges of the San (Bushmen) who still practice their hunter/gatherer way of life in remote areas.

The magnificent and varied National Parks and game reserves, including the famed Etosha, are rich with wildlife and birdlife. While travelling in Etosha or the northern reaches of Damaraland one may see the magnificent desert elephants and lions which are specially adapted to this often harsh environment.

The world’s highest dunes are found in haunting scenery inspiring somber reflection. Pre-historic rock art, the ancient fossil plant, Welwitschia mirabilis and fossilized dinosaur footprints are preserved in the ancient, rocky mountain ranges.

Namibia covers over 820 000 square km (the size of France & Britain combined) of contrasting scenery. Many of the features of this country are of particular scientific interest and attract scientists from all over the world.

Namibia is the first country in the world to include protection of the environment and sustainable utilization of wildlife in its constitution. About 15,5% of the country has been set-aside as national parks. In these areas, rare and endangered species of animals, birds and plant life are preserved and protected. They serve as a living reminder to us all, and to the generations of the future, of how it once was in Africa.

Language - English is the official language. Afrikaans and German are widely spoken.

Climate - The climate is typical of a desert land, with hot days and cool nights. The main rainfall period is between mid-January and April.

Etosha National Park

Consisting of over 22 000 square km of saline desert, savannah and woodlands, the Etosha National Park is one of the largest game reserves in Africa and one of the major sanctuaries for wildlife. Its definitive feature is the Etosha Pan, a vast shallow depression of about 5 000 square km. This great, white expanse locals call

’great place of dry water‘, often shimmers with mirages and herds of game can be seen within this eerie setting.

There are 144 mammal species in the park, including elephant, giraffe, blue wildebeest and black rhino, predators such as lion, cheetah, leopard, wildcat, hyena and jackal. The black rhino population of 300 is one of the few growing populations in the world and the local elephant are reputed to be the largest in Africa -the tallest standing at 4m at the shoulder. Their tusks however are relatively small due to genetic defects and mineral deficiencies in their diet. The majestic eland, the tiny, shy Damara dik-dik(45cm high) and the striking gemsbok, with its dramatic black and white markings are common. Bird life is prolific and some 340 species have been identified, including Namibia's national bird, the vividly coloured crimson-breasted shrike. During the more rainy seasons Etosha is also one of the most important breeding grounds for flamingos. Etosha is also known for its expert game management and attentive protection of the unspoiled environment.

Swakopmund

A true oasis and respite from the solemn desert and its monotonous heat. A seaside holiday resort full of old-world charm and modern amenities, from the quaint German colonial influences to funky Internet café’s. The tranquil setting includes promenades, palm trees and beautifully tended public gardens, the Swakopmund museum (covering natural history, mineralogy, botany, historical and ethnological aspects), the National Marine & Research Center, an aquarium, a public library, an Olympic sized, heated indoor swimming pool and a grassed golf course in a desert setting. This ‘middle of the desert’ feel is one of its attractions – one can enjoy the wild expanse of the adjacent desert and sea and yet be within easy reach of the creature comforts of Swakopmund's hotels, restaurants, bars and much-needed laundries! There is plenty to see and do and activities include quad-biking, sand boarding, rock & surf fishing and skydiving. There is also a tannery, manufacturing well-known kudu leather shoes, and a brewery producing fine beers in the German tradition.

Namib-Naukluft National Park

The Namib-Naukluft National Park is an incredibly unusual and diverse ‘super-conservation’ area. There is nothing quite like it. It’s probably the most unusual in the world– an ancient land with an ageless spirit. It covers almost 50 000 square km and is ranked as the 4th largest in the world (the largest nature conservation area in Namibia) with landscapes including an impressive mountain massif, desert plains, high sand dunes, deep gorges and an estuarine lagoon. In truly African light show there is often clear and sometimes sudden shift in the mood of the moment, as light, textures and shadows give desert landscapes entirely new characters. Survivors in this harsh landscape include the Oryx, springbok and zebra as well as the Welwitschia mirabilis, an odd-looking desert shrub. One large, protected specimen is estimated at 1500 years old.

Sossusvlei

The visual spectacular in the Sossusvlei area is unsurpassed. Amongst the continuous towering dunes as far as the eye can see is arguably the highlight of the Namib Desert, the Sossusvlei, an enormous clay-pan, enclosed by dunes. After a heavy rainfall, rare in this area, the vlei fills with water and, as the clay layers are virtually impermeable to water, a turquoise lake remains for quite some time.

The dunes and their rich tints vary from pale apricot to vivid reds and oranges, and contrast vividly with the dazzling white surfaces of the white claypans, or lakes, below. During the rainy season one of the larger of these pans creates a haven for water birds, often including flamingos. Even during the dry season, Oryx, springbok and ostriches can be seen feeding off the sparse vegetation along the water courses. The dunes of the Namib Desert developed over a period of many millions of years and are shaped by strong-multi-directional winds. It is thought that the vast quantities of sand were carried into the Atlantic Ocean by the Orange River. The surf pushed the sand back onto land and coastal dunes formed. Dunes have subsequently shifted inland and northwards. Wind continuously re-stacks the sand of the huge shifting dunes of the Namib Desert. It tirelessly forces the grains of sand on the flat windward slope upwards to the crest of the dune. Here they fall down in the wind shade. The leeward slope, therefore, is always considerably steeper than the windward side.

Sesriem

Erosion over many centuries has incised a narrow gorge through which the Tsauchab River disappears dramatically down a steep gorge in the plain. This gorge, Sesriem Canyon, is approx 1 km long with pools along the way and a 30-40 m pool at its end. These pools of water on a gravel bed in an otherwise arid region attract many birds and animals.

Namibia by Desert Express by Mike Preston

My trip to Namibia had been programmed around a journey on the Desert Express, a luxury train running between Swakopmund on the Atlantic coast, and the capital, Windhoek, 1700 metres above sea level, with a couple of days at each end.

We arrived in Swakopmund, a charming small town oozing with the character bestowed upon it by its unique location between desert and sea, and its German and African heritage. After exploring the area for a few days we headed for the old Swakopmund Railway station, where we boarded the train and were shown to our compartments by the friendly and attentive train crew.

Ingeniously designed for optimal use of the limited space, the compartment was fitted with a shower and toilet, a small sofa and a comfortable single seater which converted into bunks. The train has 24 compartments in four named coaches (Oryx, Kokerboom, Springbok, Meerkat), each decorated in the pastel colours of the desert.

Promptly at 14h00 the train moved off with a gentle clink of glasses as we gathered in the Spitzkoppe bar for the first of many drinks. Tertius, the train manager, assembled the train crew (except for the driver, whom we were assured was at his post) for introductions. The dedication and enthusiasm of this team of young people for their country and their work was apparent from the beginning, and it was perhaps this more than any other single feature of the journey which made it so unique. As we sat enjoying their commentary and hospitality, the train moved at its sedate pace through the surprisingly varied and interesting desert landscape.

As night fell a four course dinner was served in the plush Welwitschia restaurant car. Namibian cooking draws heavily upon local ingredients, and game, fish, and steak were all offered along witha selection of excellent South African wines. After dinner, Tertius invited us into the refreshing clear desert air to enjoy an experience that most people never have - seeing the constellations sparkling through unpolluted air with no ambient light to detract from their clarity.

After a full cooked breakfast, we made our last stop at Okapuka game ranch. We transferred from the train in open vehicles and drove through that unique African early morning cool. From the safety of a substantial hide, we saw untamed lions feeding and marvelled at the raw strength and beauty of the king of the jungle. From there we went to the boma and sat enjoying coffee whilst a tame ostrich kept us under observation through its beady eyes. All too soon it was time to board the train for the last short stretch to Windhoek's historic station where we arrived at 10h00 and said our farewells to the train crew.

E-mail Chris Boecker to book your trip to Africa!